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Giving credit where credit is due, I created this starting from the Cent/Mill wiring conversion document on WireTap.  I could not find a name on it to credit.  If you are the creator of this document, let me know, and I will mention it.  Some of the information came from Jonathan Deitch, John L. Cwikla, and T. Franklin Bowen's documented pinouts, also found on WireTap.  But now, most of it has been determined by myself, by careful examination of the boards.

I am soon to be converting the other way.   I currently have a Centipede cocktail and have a Millipede board on the way (this has now arrived).   Once I get it I will be making an adapter to run the Millipede board on the Centipede machine. 

• Centipede pin numbers in Bold Navy Blue are pins on MY Centipede connector that actually HAVE wires going to them.
• The Millipede pin numbers shown in Bold Red are the connections that need to be made for the cocktail conversion to work.
• The smaller grey pin numbers either are not needed for this conversion, or there was no wire from the Centipede cocktail harness to make a connection anyway.

Notes from the Millipede to Centipede conversion document from WireTap.

Since these notes were written with a Millipede to Centipede conversion in mind, I've added my own notes for reference when doing a Centipede to Millipede cocktail conversion like I am.  My notes are in blue.   Updated thoughts are in red.

• Make sure the cocktail pin (P20-15) is jumpered over to ground for uprights on the Centipede side connector.
  My conversion is with a cocktail machine, so this will be different for me.
  
• Install a jumper from P19-L to ground on the Millipede connector.  This is the ground for the Millipede coin mechs.  The ground on P19-N is the ground for the Millipede service panel.
  I think I can ignore this.
  
• The P10 connector for the -5 and +12 volts is on the Aud/RegII card.  You'll need to buy 2 .093 male Molex pins to snap in the Molex housing. 
  Since I'm going the other way I don't have to worry about this.  My Centipede wire harness supplies -5 and +12 volts, but the  Millipede PCB doesn't need them anyway.  Phew!  That makes that easier.  However, the Millipede shows a +10.3VDC connection at P20-E and P20-18.  I don't know how I'll supply that, if it's needed at all...
  Okay, I found +10.3VDC.  It is also on the Regulator/AudioII PCB.  An empty Molex plug with the unregulated +10.3VDC (mine measures 11.5VDC actually) sits at J6 pin 5, as I've indicated in the Millipede pinout table below.  Here is a picture of the Audio board, for easy location of J6.  I've also indicated where you would find the -5 and +12 VDC lines if you were adapting a Millipede to play Centipede.
  NOTE: Okay!  It seems that the 'unregulated' voltage lines have a 30% tolerance!  That means I can just connect 12 volts to the 10.3 volt line!  That means NO connection to the Audio board as described above.  At least not for a Centipede to Millipede.   I'll leave the reference to the 10.3VDC line on the image of the Audio board below for you purists, and for those looking for the -5 and +12 volt lines to do a Millipede to Centipede conversion.
  
• To access the Centipede colour grid, a momentary switch will need to be installed as the tilt switch.   Apparently Millipedes do not have a tilt switch.
  Millipede may not have a tilt switch, but the PCB has a tilt line at P20-R.
  
• Millipede cabinet uses composite sync whereas the Centipede cabinet uses horizontal and vertical syncs.
  It appears that Millipede also supplies seperate horizontal (P19-M) and vertical(P19-10) signals as well as a composite signal.  How convenient is that?  As a matter of fact my Centipede cocktail uses the composite sync signal anyway, not seperate H and V.  Simpler again.
  
• The Centipede pinout on wiretap shows 'coin door ground' on pin P20-X and 'start 2 LED' on P20-R.  These are not correct.  P20-X is +22 VDC and 'start 2 LED' is on P20-8.  This has been verified on the Centipede schematics.  P20-R is the tilt switch.
  Actually the Centipede 'slam' or tilt switch is on P20-S, and the 'slam' line on Millipede is P20-R.

If any of this is confusing and doesn't make sense, send me an email, and I'll try to make it clearer.

Atari Regulator / Audio II PCB diagram

• The black squares are test points, and are labeled clearly on the board.  The J# items are Molex connectors.  All other components are here for positional reference only.
• J6 pin 5 is a good place to pick up +10.3VDC for the Millipede PCB when doing a Centipede to Milliplede conversion. 
  NOTE:  It is within tolerance to connect 12VDC to the +10.3VDC line.  So, if you are not a purist, you can just connect to 12Volts on the wire harness and not mess with this connection to the Audio board at all.   That's what I'm gonna do.  Stay tuned for results...
• J10 pin 4 is a good place to pick up +12VDC, and J10 pin 9 is a good place to pick up -5VDC for the Centipede board when doing a Millipede to Centipede conversion.

Millipede Pinouts With Corresponding Centipede Pins

• Centipede pin numbers in Bold Navy Blue are pins on MY Centipede connector that actually HAVE wires going to them.
• The Millipede pin numbers shown in Bold Red are the connections that need to be made for the cocktail conversion to work.
• The smaller grey pin numbers either are not needed for this conversion, or there was no wire from the Centipede cocktail harness to make a connection anyway.

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